RETREAT PLANTATION,
on the south end of St. Simons Island, was the property of
Major William Page, a friend of Major Butler, who had come
from Page's Point, South Carolina, and had purchased island
and mainland acreage along the Georgia coast in the early
1800's. The St. Simons plantation which he called Retreat
was formerly the Orange Grove Plantation where the Thomas
Spaldings of Sapelo had lived when they were first married.
Major and Mrs. Page had only one child, a daughter Anna
Matilda, and the little family lived in the house that was a
replica of General Oglethorpe's old Frederica place, Orange
Hall, a roomy eighteenth century English style cottage
sturdily built to stand the West Indian gales that sometimes
blew in from the sea. The Pages planned to build a larger
house overlooking the water of channel and sound, but the
years went by and they were comfortable in their picturesque
home.
As young Ann Page grew up she shared her mother's love for
home-making and gardening, and inherited her father's genius
for managing the affairs of the great plantations. Pretty,
gay, and lovable, she was a favorite with everybody and a
sought-after belle of the coastal region. In 1823 a young
lawyer from Massachusetts, Thomas Butler King, came South on
a visit, and was so charmed with the coastland that he
decided to make his home in Georgia.
Within little more than two years after their daughter's
marriage, Major and Mrs. Page both died, and Ann Page King
inherited the coastal property. After spending a few years
at Retreat the Thomas Butler Kings and their growing family
lived on one of the mainland plantations, Waverly, near the
present town of Kingsland. Young Mr. King was alreadv
becoming interested in the statesman's career that was to be
his life's work; and when a depression in cotton prices made
operation of their several plantations impractical the
family disposed of most of the mainland propertv and moved
to the St. Simons place.
Like the Pages before them, the King family lived in the
house built in the 1700's by the Spaldings, the charming
English cottage of handhewn timbers with shuttered veranda
and gabled roof. They set out an avenue of liveoaks leading
to the site selected for the plantation mansion, and a drive
bordered by water oaks led to the cottage, which stood some
distance to the right of the intended house site. One can
imagine the plans Thomas and Ann King must have made for a
larger house, but the years at Retreat were too filled with
living to leave time for the building of mansions.
Meanwhile there was a guest house for overnight visitors,
the daughters were happy in their dormer-windowed bedrooms,
and the sons had their own "Grasshopper Hall." Clustered
around the cottage, besides the annexes for extra sleeping
quarters, were hothouses, summerhouses, the customary
detached kitchen, and the schoolhouse where lessons were
taught until the children were old enough to go East to
study - the girls to finishing schools, the boys to Yale and
Princeton.
Other buildings in the little settlement around the dwelling
were the plantation hospital and the famous four-storied
cotton house that was used as a guide for ships during the
years when there was no lighthouse on the island. There was
the tabby bam, and there were the servants' quarters.
Favorite among the younger servants was Neptune Small, who
although not much older than the boys themselves kept a
stern eye on the young gentlemen in Grasshopper Hall. There
were Juno, Minerva, and Adelette, and Naynie who reigned
supreme at Retreat. Navnie, who had taken care of Ann Page
King when she was a baby, was to live to help "raise" the
third generation and to be an honored guest at the wedding
of the Kings' granddaughter.
The real beauty of Retreat was in its surrounding gardens.
The spacious grounds were laid out in formal gardens in
which bloomed almost every flower and shrub known to the
region; there were nearly a hundred varieties of roses, but
never a flower without a fragrance. A "cedar pleasaunce"
formed a windbreak between house and beach, and shell walks
led through the delightful maze of the Kings' famous
arboretum. A "plantation" in the English manner, the
arboretum contained specimen trees and rare shrubs, many of
which had been brought in tubs on sailing vessels from
foreign parts, gifts from friends of Thomas Butler King.
Many stories are handed down of houseparties and dances, of
amateur theatricals, of banquets and musicales and weddings
of the daughters of the household. With the King family of
nine children, the sons handsome and gallant, the daughters
beautiful and talented, life was gay and charming at
Retreat. And truly a retreat his home must have been to
Thomas Butler King. Son of a family of Massachusetts
statesmen, the master of Retreat became a prominent figure
in affairs of government, affairs which often took him
across the continent and to foreign countries.
A member of the House of Representatives for more than a
decade, and chairman of the House Naval Committee at the
time that Old Ironsides was first rebuilt, Thomas
Butler King was presented with an ornamental vase made from
some of the ship timbers that had come from St. Simons
Island. Fashioned in the design of the famous Warwick Vase
the handsomely carved um is still treasured by the Kings'
descendants. When California was ceded to the United States
by Mexico, Thomas Butler King was appointed by President
Taylor to inspect the territory. Later he served for a time
as collector of the port of San Francisco. In his absence
the management of the plantation fell into the competent
hands of his wife, who was as well known for the superiority
of the cotton grown in the fields of Retreat as for the
perfection of the roses grown in her famous gardens.
What an amazing woman this Anna Page King must have been!
With her large family of children, the management of the
vast acres of the plantation, the personal care which she
gave to her many slaves, the hours spent with her flowers
and shrubs, her home still had a reputation for an ease and
grace of hospitality which has long outlived the house
itself. Prominent men of this and other countries, friends
and associates of Thomas Butler King, were frequent visitors
at the beautiful estate. When Audubon visited there he was
"fain to think he had landed on one of the fairy islands
said to have existed in the Golden Age."
The years at Retreat were gracious and happy ones, an
existence almost ideal until 1859 when the eldest son,
Butler, and the mother died within the year. When the
clouds of war began to gather and the storm broke over the
nation, it shattered the very foundations of Thomas Butler
King's life. Here was a war between the government to which
he had given a lifetime of service and his beloved Southland
in which the happiest moments of that lifetime had been
lived. A heartbroken father saw his remaining sons go to
war, one never to return. At the same time an important
mission for the Confederate Government required his presence
in Europe. Small wonder Thomas Butler King's health failed,
and he was laid to rest in 1864 beside his wife in Christ
Church Cemetery.
The other members of the household had refugeed to their
place "The Refuge" in Ware Countv, and Retreat stood
deserted during the war years. In the nightmare days of
Reconstruction the old homestead was confiscated by an
individual of carpetbagger fame. When it was finally
restored to its owners the fields were unplanted, fences
down, livestock and equipment gone. But the Mallery Kings
decided to come with their familv to live at Retreat in an
attempt to bring the old place back some of its former
productiveness. The Kings' three voung daughters, Mary
Anna, Frances Buford, and Florence'Page, were just the age
to find high adventure in their life on the neglected
plantation. There were other young people whose families
were trying to restore their property, and there were boys
and girls at The Mills on the old Hamilton Plantation.
Of course Neptune and some of the other servants had come
back to the island with the family, and the three girls
never tired of hearing them tell about life at Retreat
before the war. They shuddered delightfully over tales of
the "Ghost With the Long Arms" that used to walk beneath the
liveoaks and of the dire calamities that befell those to
whom it beckoned. They thrilled over the romances of the
four lovely daughters of the household: of Hannah who
married William Audley Couper and was for a time mistress of
Hamilton Plantation on the Frederica; of Florence, for whom
the youngest of the three girls was named; of Virginia,
whose pet name was Appeleeta; and of Georgia, who sang like
an angel. They liked to hear how visitors approaching the
river landing would silence their boatmen's songs to listen
with delight to the sweet girlish voice drifting over the
water.
The girls liked to hear, too, the stories Neptune told of
the war years. Like so many faithful servants of the Old
South, he had gone to war with Lord King, and when the young
captain fell in the battle of Fredericksburg, Neptune had
carried him in from the battlefield and had brought his body
back to Georgia. Then the loyal Negro had made his way back
to the battlefront to be with the voungest son, Cuyler, whom
the family called "Tippecanoe." The two were together
throughout the war, both homesick for their peaceful island,
and when the moon was full Neptune would remind the boy
"High water on the bar, Marse Tip."
The stables that had housed the carriage and saddle horses
were empty now, so the girls persuaded Neptune to show them
how to yoke Tom and Jerry, the team of gentle oxen. There
were places they wanted to go and an ox cart was better than
walking, and soon the three pretty girls in their strange
equipage were a familiar sight on the island. The unusual
conveyance often brought excitement - such as the time one
of the oxen decided to lie down while the girls were
attending church, and it took the efforts of most of the men
of the congregation to haul him to his feet, get the yoke
and reins untangled, and start the young ladies on their way
home. Another time when the girls were visiting some young
people on a neighboring plantation the oxen were tied to the
porch railing. The visit lasted too long even for the
patience of Tom and Jerry, and a crash brought everyone to
the porch to find that the oxen had determined to pull loose
and go home, carrying part of the railing with them.
And so for a few years gay young feet again danced over the
mellowed old floors of Retreat; Japanese lanterns flickered
over the lawns; song and laughter drifted over the water.
But although the King girls had some happy times in the
years they spent on the old plantation, these were
heartbreaking years for Mallery and Eugenia. Their youngest
child, little Thomas Butler King, III, died when he was
scarcelv more than a baby. And the difficulties of
restoring the plantation were proving insurmountable.
Adequate help was not to be had; the crops were
disappointing, with cotton prices low. Finally Mallery King
reluctantly gave up the attempt to revive Retreat, moved his
family back to the mainland, and took up other interests.
After standing empty a few years the plantation house and
the cotton house went up in flames one night as the wind
blew in across the channel. In 1928 a part of the old
plantation became the Sea Island Golf Club, and the
spreading acres of Retreat again offered gayety and pleasure
to visitors from far and near.
A quarter of a century after the romance-haunted old house
burned, the last chapter in its history was being written in
faraway New England in the native state of Thomas Butler
King. In the town of Attleboro, Massachusetts, in 1929, an
antique dealer bought at auction an old clock with wooden
works that had a card inside its back cover which read "U.
S. S. Ethan Allen on blockade Jan. 10, 1863." The G. A. R.
Dining Club of Attleboro undertook to trace ownership of the
clock. With the help of Charles C. Cain, Jr., publisher of
the Attleboro Daily Sun, Navy Department records were
searched, and it was discovered from an old ship's log in
the Washington Archives that the Ethan Allen on that date in
1863 had been at St. Simons Island, Georgia. Subsequent
investigation established the fact that the clock had been
taken from the Kings' house at Retreat Plantation. It was
arranged for a delegation of citizens from Attleboro to make
the trip to Georgia to return the clock to descendants of
the King family.
In May 1930 the group from Massachusetts arrived by boat at
Savannah, where they received a hospitable welcome. They
proceeded by car to Brunswick where they found the city
decked out in bunting and holiday mood to greet them. As
the motorcade of visitors and their Georgia hosts reached
the grounds of old Retreat, Navy cruisers and Coast Guard
boats, with flags waving and pennants flying, steamed into
the harbor. Congressman Martin of Massachusetts eloquently
presented the clock, and Senator George of Georgia, with
equal eloquence, accepted it for the King family. Howard
Coffin was master of ceremonies, and music was furnished by
descendants of slaves of the plantation. The beautiful bass
voice of old Neptune's son Clarence and the high sweet
soprano of his daughter Cornelia drifted over the water, and
the old clock ticked the minutes away as serenely as though
it had not been gone from its island home for nearly
threescore years and ten.
The approach to the Sea Island Golf Club skirts the original
avenue of trees, leading past the rliins of the slave
hospital. The central part of the club house itself is the
old tabby barn. In a shady grove by a lily-covered small
pond is the little cemetery where plantation slaves and
their descendants have been buried since 1800. The
inscription on the bronze tablet which marks the tombstone
of Neptune Small tells its own story of the devotion of this
man to the family which held him in the highest affection
and esteem all of his long life. Looking up the grass-grown
avenue between the ancient liveoaks, one half expects to see
the gardens of old Retreat Plantation through the spreading
moss-hung branches. |