HAMPTON PLANTATION,
property of Major Pierce Butler, was one of the most widely
known of the old St. Simons estates, because of its
association with those two turbulent personalities, Aaron
Burr and Fanny Kemble. Located on Butler's Point, across a
narrow creek from Cannon's Point, the plantation was on that
part of the island where General Oglethorpe's New Hampton
outpost had been stationed. Here Major Butler acquired two
large tracts of land and the neighboring island of Little
St. Simons; and with his customary proficiency developed the
property into one of the finest cotton plantations on the
coast. We are told that the cotton fields of Hampton and
the rice fields of the Butler Island Plantation were worked
by as many as a thousand slaves.
A letter written by Major Butler in 1794 says that his
settlement at Hampton was still in its infancy, but that he
expected to have it completed within a year or two. The
Butler residence, or Big House, was described by a visitor
as “an imposing mansion luxurious and hospitable;" and the
comfortable Hill House nearby was always ready to be placed
at the disposal of friends. Skilled workers were brought
from the Butlers' South Carolina estates to construct these
and other buildings; old letters mention as many as
half-a-dozen dwelling houses as well as summerhouses,
workshops, storehouses, farm buildings, and slave quarters.
The grounds were laid out into formal gardens and a sunken
garden, and beautified with groves of orange trees and
hedges of oleander and boxwood.
The Major, austere and dignified autocrat that he was,
differed in every way from his easy-going, unpretentious
neighbors; and the strict military regulations and
discipline at Butler's Point were in marked contrast to the
leisurely atmosphere of the other plantations. The
hospitality of Hampton was dispensed with unwonted
formality, and the casual visitor arriving by boat must
state his name and business to a warden or vidette at
the dock before he ",as escorted to the Butler mansion.
Managed with the regimental efficiency of the Butler Island
Plantation, Hampton was a model community which produced
everything needed in the dailv life of its inhabitants.
Since he was a prominent figure. in the public life of the
nation, Major Butler entertained many distinguished people
on his island estate. He often extended the hospitality of
Hampton to business, social, and political friends during
the months when he was not in residence, confident that they
would be cared for by his retinue of efficient servants in
the lavish manner for which the place was famous. In 1804
the plantation provided sanctuary for Vice-President Aaron
Burr, fugitive from public indignation over the duel in
which Alexander Hamilton was killed. Burr spent some weeks
at Butler's Point, and in Senator Butler's absence was
entertained by residents of St. Simons and of towns upon the
mainland.
In a letter to his daughter written while he was at Hampton,
Burr said that the plantation "affords plenty of milk,
cream, and butter; turkeys, fowls, kids, pigs, geese, and
mutton; fish of course in abundance; figs, peaches, melons,
oranges, and pomegranates." Further comforts were Madeira
wine, brandy, and porter; and his neighbor Mr. Couper had
sent an "assortment of French wines, all excellent, and an
orange shrub which makes a most delicious punch." This last
was no doubt some of Mrs. Couper's famous orange cordial for
which the "receipt" still exists. In delicate faded script,
Rebecca Couper directs the reader to "put into three quarts
of brandy the chips of 18 Seville oranges and let them steep
a fortnight in a stone bottle close stopped. Boil two
quarts of spring water with a pound and a half of the finest
sugar near an hour very gently. Clarif the water and sugar
with the white of an egg, then strain it through a jellybag
and boil it near half away. When it is cold strain the
brandy into the syrup."
It was in this same year of 1804 that Hampton experienced
the terrible hurricane which would have taken the lives of
more than a hundred hands but for the quick thinking of
Morris, one of the head men of the plantation. In charge of
the workers in the fields on Little St. Simons, Morris saw
signs of the approaching storm, and managed to get everv man
into the hurricane house before the full force of the
tempest struck. His intelligence and bravery were rewarded
with an engraved silver cup still handed down from one
generation to the next in Morris' family.
Hampton remained one of the finest and most luxurious places
on the island as long as Major Butler used it for a parttime
home, but after he settled in Philadelphia and left the
estate in charge of overseers there was no longer any reason
for it to be operated on the same lavish scale. The
plantation continued to be a profitable enterprise, but as
the years went by it gradually ceased to be the model of
efficiency of former days.
The young Pierce Butlers came to St. Simons in the spring of
1839, and although Mrs. Butler made little effort to enter
into the social life of the community, she found a congenial
friend at the neighboring plantation on Cannon's Point, for
even so critically discriminating an individual as Fanny
Kemble could not resist the spell of John Couper's
personality.
Young Mrs. Butler was both entranced and repelled by her
life at Hampton. She wrote enthusiastically of the beauties
of the island seen in her daily horseback rides. To this
pampered and fashionable young woman St. Simons must have
seemed little more than an elemental wilderness, but that
strain of elemental wildness that was a part of Fannv
Kemble's nature made her love it in spite of herself. Upon
her saddle horse Miss Kate or the spirited Montreal, Fanny
Kemble Butler spent hours each day in the woodlands which
she thought even more beautiful than her beloved English
parks.
But on the estate of Hampton she was incensed by the waste
and decay of the once splendid plantation. Major Butler had
been gone for nearly a quarter of a century, and the Big
House, long untenanted, was sadly run down, the gardens
overgrown and neglected. Fanny Kemble believed that the
"decaying ruins of the old dilapidated planter's palace"
would hardly stand long enough to be carried away bv the
erosion that had already claimed the orange grove that had
once stood between house and river. But the great house had
been built to endure, and it was still standing nearly
twenty years later when young Sally Butler visited Hampton
with her father. The Couper family from Hopeton were
spending the summer at Cannon's Point, and Sally had gay
times with them and with the young people on the other
plantations.
The ruins of the deserted mansion still stood when Frances
Butler and her father came to Hampton in the spring of 1866,
but all trace of the grandeur of the old plantation had
completely disappeared. The Butlers moved down from the
rice plantation in May, bringing their household goods by
raft. The Hampton estate had been in possession of Northern
troops during the war, and the only habitable place was a
small house entirely stripped of furniture; refurnished and
made comfortable, it served for a decade as a part-time home
for the owners of the plantation. Frances Butler described
it in her journal as a cottage of "four rooms down and two
up, with a hall ten feet wide through the center and a
veranda shut in by Venetian shades running around it."
Since an old mule cart was their only conveyance, Pierce
Butler bought his daughter a saddle horse, and she had two
little pet bears, "the funniest, jolliest little beasts
imaginable." With the neglected gardens cleared and trimmed,
orange trees and shrubs in bloom, and the woodlands a tangle
of blossom, the younger Frances found the beauties of the
island as enchanting as had her famous mother. The Butlers
found many of the former slaves still living on the old
plantation. There were Uncle John and Maum Peggy, the old
man Carolina who had been Major Butler's body-servant, and
preacher John who had lived at Hampton from its beginning
and who saw the fifth generation of the family when Sally
Butler Wister came to visit with her little boy. Brain had
charge of replanting the fields, and had no trouble with the
hands, as eight members of his own family were working under
him. The first year the cotton crop did well, but the next
year's crop was totally destroyed by army worms in a single
night. About 1871 the ruins of Major Butler's old mansion
burned, but by this time the owners had given up planting
cotton at Hampton.
The Hampton Plantation eventually passed by inheritance to
Sally Butler's son, Owen Wister, novelist of The
Virginian fame. He visited the old place several times,
and it is possible that he did some of his writing here
among the romantic surroundings. Acquired by other owners
and no longer occupied, the property gradually returned to
the wilderness from which it came, the ruins of its
buildings overgrown with moss and vine, the only sign of
life the brilliant flash of a bird's wing or the motion of a
deer in the undergrowth. As the ilderness reclaimed
Butler's Point, time completed its cycle; during World War
II there was a lookout on the lonely northwest tip of St.
Simons where Oglethorpe had stationed his New Hampton
outpost two centuries before. |